Tasting notes:
Like the other Amontillado in this year’s Best in Show, this VORS (Very Old Rare Sherry) Amontillado is formidable. It’s slightly deeper in colour: a deep orange amber. Its aromas, too, are fuller and weightier than its peer, reminding the fortunate drinker of antique furniture and generously endowed college libraries – as well as the scents of dry places in high summer, with their warm stones, path-trodden, sun-dried figs and tough, scruffy herbs. On the palate, it is a little less savagely pure, aerial and vaporising, with more depth and bottom to it; it has dark corners and recesses of flavour, whereas its sibling was all light and air. Technically, in fact, it has a few grams of residual sugar, though you won’t notice those as the wine’s sheer power of flavour and acid cut more than offset any sweetness. A remarkable drink; a wine-world reference.