Juliet Victor, Édes Szamorodni, Tokaj, Hungary, 2017
Platinum - Best in Show: Best in Show
54.7% Furmint, 17.09% Hárslevelu, 28.21% Muscat Lunel
Szamorodni, famously, means 'as it comes' in Hungarian. If it comes like this, then it can't come often enough. This bright gold Tokaji smells fresh and lively yet alluring and sensual too, with the fragrance of Harslevelu and the sweetly grapy appeal of Muscat Lunel joining the less focussed warmth and force of Furmint. On the palate, this is a decidedly rich wine with ample sweet unction. It guards all that aromatic finesse right the way through the palate, despite the sugars; there is some supporting acidity, but it is really the quiet, pale inner fire of the Fumint which brings balance. No question but that this could be aged with profit - yet it's so delicious now, as it comes...