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Château Vartely, Ice Wine Riesling, Codru, Moldova, 2017

Ice Wine Riesling
Platinum - Best in Show: Best in Show
Natural Cork
100% Riesling
The second major surprise of our 2018 DAWA 'Best in Show' selection is the appearance of a Moldovan wine. It's a Riesling -- but one with 250 g of residual sugar, hence its deep though bright sunshine-yellow hue. The nose is frankly sweet, yet finely contoured, too, with a complete suite of citrussy complexities: orange, grapefruit and lemon, and a rich fattiness which may suggest some botrytis. On the palate, too, it's pure extravagance: ample succulent sweet fruits, but with a bright, cleansing acidity to keep everything tucked in, firm and fresh, despite the richness. It's not in any way Germanic, so don't approach it with that set of expectations; the stylistic relationship with late-harvest Alsace wines is a closer one. But its generosity, freshness and charm, perhaps, are uniquely Moldovan -- and it offers great value. DRINK 2018-2022
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